+44 (0) 845 365 8 007
info@bondsgaragesandsheds.com
Your Basket: is currently empty

Building Assembly Guidelines

BONDS GARAGES AND SHEDS ASSEMBLY GUIDELINES.

www.bondsgaragesandsheds.co.uk

Please note it is advised you only take on the assembly of our buildings if you have previous general building experience, we are happy to give additional advice during your assembly should you require it, please allow 24 hour for enquiries to be answered as we do not have a dedicated assembly advice team, our sales team will need time to double check with the relavant team to ensure we give you the correct advise. Instructions for assmebly include the below instructions plus some additional figures for you specific building.  


Assembly Instructions for a Small Steel Garage or Shed

The tools you will need:-

 

1. Electric drill/screwdriver, preferably cordless.

2. 8mm hexagon driver bit.

3. Fine file for steel.

4. Electrically operated jig saw with fine metal cutting blade.

5. At least two spanners to suit nuts and bolts provided.

6. Electrically powered angle grinder with metal cutting disk.

7. Tape measure.

8. Steps or working platform.

9. Masonry drill and drill bit.

10. Suitable masonry bolts to fix your building to the concrete base. (see fixing the framework to the concrete below)

What you should have in the kit provided unless otherwise arranged. (These will be detailed in the packing list provided with your building)

Sectional steel Frame.

a. Main support legs.

b. Roof trusses.

c. Door liner to suit the doors on your building.

d. Cross braces.

Profiled steel panel

Roof panel

Wall panel

Ridge pieces

Barge pieces

Corner pieces

Doors as requested by you complete with locks, latches and keys.

An assortment of brackets, nuts, bolts, washers and self drilling stitching screws

Before you begin, please take the trouble to lay out all the pieces you have received to identify them. The legs will probably be the largest steel section with provision for the attachment of ground fixing brackets at one end. The roof trusses will usually be rectangular box section, as will the door liner steel. The cross braces will probably be the smallest box or channel section and so on. Some buildings can contain what could be a bewildering assortment of different sized steel section, while others could be quite simple to sort out; it all depends on the size and complexity of the building you have ordered.

On some buildings, the roof panels are a different profile to the wall panels and it is important that you do not get them confused. On other buildings the wall and roof panels have the same profile, but it is still important you do not get them confused as many are pre cut to the correct length and should you cut one of these to fit in the wrong place by mistake, they can not be re-joined easily.

The assembly procedure:-

Before you start, you should mark out on the pre-prepared concrete base approximately where each corner leg of your building should stand.

The wall framework:-

All the pieces of the main steel framework, cross braces, legs, roof trusses etc are predrilled to take the assembly bolts, so identifying where each piece goes will be reasonably easy. Start the steel assembly with the main steel framework of the gable end of your building which does not hold the main door using the appropriate nuts and bolts provided. When this is ready, leave it while you identify and assemble the two legs and roof truss which make up the first bay from this gable end.

Once these two assemblies are complete you need to stand them both up on the concrete base in their approximate location positions and connect them together using the wall cross braces. There will be three or more cross braces to each wall dependent upon the height of your building. Do not fix the legs to the concrete yet, that will come later. (Do not bother at this stage about the roof cross braces, you will get to that when the main framework is complete.)

Once you have connected the rear gable end to steel framework of the first bay the structure will now stand on its own. You should position it as close as you can into its final resting position. On large buildings, you will need to fix this section down to the concrete base using masonry bolts as it will become too heavy to move later. On small buildings, don’t bother fixing the legs down yet, as the building can be positioned accurately once the framework is completed.

Continue assembling the building bay by bay and finally the gable end where the main door is usually positioned. If the building you ordered has the main door along one side, you will need to be aware of where this is going as you work along assembling the main framework.

Once you have the main framework assembled, you should identify the steel for the door liner/s, including any channels etc which go with the particular type of door you’ve selected.

Fix in to place the door liner steel, but at this stage leave the channels etc to one side until you are ready to fit the door.

Fixing the framework to the concrete:-

Once the main steel framework for your building is assembled you can position your building accurately on the concrete base into its final resting position. Where the concrete fixing brackets are attached by bolts, attach all the concrete fixing brackets to the base of the legs and mark the drilling points where each masonry bolt will be fixed. On buildings with pre-welded concrete fixing brackets, you will need to move the framework to one side to allow room for the drilling. (Bolted brackets can be removed if moving the framework is difficult). Drill the holes in the concrete base for the masonry bolts. The size of the masonry bolts is dictated by the size of the building. Small buildings will need masonry bolts of approximately 12mm in diameter x 100mm long.

These bolts will get need to be progressively larger as the completed building size increases, but usually these will not be larger than 25mm in diameter x 150mm long for our self assembly buildings. The instructions which come with the bolts will tell you the size hole you will need to drill. As a guide, a building up to 6M x 6M is small, up to 9M x 8M is medium while larger than this will be large.

Once you have drilled the concrete, insert the plug halves of the masonry bolts into the holes, keeping the bolts back. Re-position the framework accurately over the holes and insert the bolts. Make sure you get each bolt ‘started’ before you tighten any down. Once all the bolts are started, tighten them down with the appropriate spanner.

The roof framework:-

Now the wall framework complete with the roof trusses is complete and securely fixed down you can fix the cross braces to the roof trusses. Try to avoid using step ladders for this job. It is better to use a small scaffold platform or some other working platform construction which gives a stable surface upon which you can stand and work on the roof safely. Where the eave height is greater than 3M we strongly recommend that a proper working platform is used. STEPS ARE DANGEROUS.

The roof cross braces attach to the roof trusses in just the same way as the wall cross braces, using the brackets and bolts provided.

The Doors:-

There are many options available for garage and shed doors and several come with their own installation guidelines, which we will have provided you with if we have them. A few door manufacturers do not provide installation guidelines and this note is to help cover for these. Mostly this category is limited to roller doors. Our doors are designed to be fitted either with the roll outside the building, or inside the building dependent upon personal choice. On smaller buildings where the low eave and narrow width make it ‘tight’ for the door to roll up inside the building, we supply the door in the ‘outside’ roll format. These come complete with weather shroud strips, which interlock with each other and are then screwed using the self drilling screws to the outside flange of the door support plates. This then gives a weatherproof cowl to shroud the door when rolled up (open).

If you would prefer to have the door roll up on the inside of the building you will need to drill out the rivets which hold the door to the spring loaded roller and turn it around so it rolls the right way. Re-fix with either rivets or bolts. The weather shroud is now optional and fitted at your discretion using the same method mentioned above, only inside the building not outside.

The door support plates have welded brackets attached which are fixed to the door liner steel. Six small brackets are supplied to which the door support plate is bolted. Once you have established the position of the door support plate and whether you will be fitting the door inside or out, these small brackets must be screwed (using the self drilling screws provided) to the side of the door liner in such a position so the door support bracket can be bolted to them.

Bolt the door support bracket to the pre-positioned brackets (as described above) with the door rail support cups in the upward position. Once the support brackets are in place, seat the door rail - with door attached and rolled up - into the support cups and bolt in place.

Fit the door guide tracks into place against the door liner using self drilling screws, and check that the door travels up and down in the tracks without hindrance. It may be necessary to trim the track slightly using an angle grinder, should it be found that the door fouls on the track at any point. This is common in small buildings, especially when it is not possible to position the door roll high enough to clear the standard guide track, especially when the door is fitted inside the building rather than outside. Be aware that there are stops on the bottom of the door to stop it rolling right up out of the tracks. These may need to be re-positioned according to the side (in or out) that the door is fitted.

Once the door is fitted and working, drill a hole through the outer edge of the door track large enough for the door locking bar to pass through, having first ensured the holes are in the correct position. It isn’t possible to pre-drill these holes for you, as on different buildings the door will ‘finish’ in different places, according to whether or not a weather ‘step’ is to be provided along the bottom of the door, which can vary in depth according to local design and customer preference.

Pedestrian doors:-

These come complete with door frame. First ensure you have identified ‘up’. Once you are confident you have the door the right way up, screw the frame to the liner using the self drilling screws. It may be necessary to pack out one side of the frame using suitable timber spacers. Be sure to check that the door frame is true and square before fixing, or you may find the door will not open and close smoothly.

Windows:-

These come complete with frame and are fitted in precisely the same way as for a pedestrian door.

Fixing the external panels:-

These are fixed to the wall and roof cross braces using the short ‘stitching’ self drilling screws. Mark the line of the cross braces using a French chalk line ‘snapped’ against the outside of the steel panel, so you get a clean neat row of screw heads when you are finished (it looks better).

It is usual to fit the roof panels first, but on windy days or in exposed places, especially if you intend to do the roof one day and the walls the next, it may be easier to fir the walls first and gives less risk of the roof panels being damaged by high winds before the walls are in place to protect them.

Use one ‘stitching’ screw to each channel of the panel. Start at one end, making sure the wall panels meet the outer edged of the end leg and work in a continuous progression from one end of the building to the other. Continue this formula until either all the walls, or all the roof is/are finished. Check carefully that the first panel is square and positioned correctly before fixing. Profiled panels are designed to overlap each other so the building is weather tight. Once the first panel is positioned correctly, all the subsequent panels will follow suit naturally as they are fitted.

It will be necessary to fit the short pieces above the doors and windows in their correct order as if they were a full sheet; or the next sheet will not be positioned correctly. It will usually be necessary to cut these short sheets to fit using the cutting disk or jig saw.

The gable end wall panels will vary in length in accordance with the slope of the roof as you work along the gable walls. These need to be carefully measured, marked with a ‘snapped’ French chalk line, then cut accurately along the line with an angle grinder or jig saw fitted with a suitable fine metal cutting disk or blade.

Unless you are familiar with the use of these tools, it is recommended that you do this very carefully and check your measurements at least twice before you cut. (Steel panels can not be butt jointed). Care should be taken to weight or clamp the panel down adequately before commencing cutting. Make sure the panel can not vibrate while cutting if you use a jig saw, and be sure to keep the saw tight against the panel while cutting.

When cutting a profiled steel panel, it is important to ensure there is nothing obstructing the underneath of the cutting line. Prop the sheet on a suitably thick length of timber, or cut it over the end of a ‘saw horse’ bench. Never cut more than one sheet at a time and never cut a sheet which is resting on another sheet.

Be sure to fix the panel the right way out. Usually, only the outside has the finish colour paint coat on it. The inside is usually left in the primer coat colour.

When fitting the roof panels, be sure to leave a slight overhang (about 10mm) at the gable ends and a larger overhang (about 50mm) at the eave before fixing the first sheet; then follow this format with the subsequent sheets. Fit the panels using the self drilling screws as for the wall panels.

Once you have decided where your translucent fibre glass roof panels are to be located, you should treat them as a standard steel wall panel and fit them in the same way. It may be necessary to cut a length of steel roof panel to fit if your roof light does not reach right from the ridge to the eave. Any overlaps in the roof must be a minimum of 300mm. Be sure to have the ‘upper’ sheet overlapping the ‘lower’ sheet.

Fitting ridge pieces:-

These are the pieces which cover the roof ridge line and weatherproof it. They are usually set at a 120 degree angle, and will deform slightly as they are screwed down. Once all the roof panels are in place, cover the seam along the ridge line with the ridge pieces provided. These should be screwed using the long self drilling screws provided through the apex of each roof panel sheet about 30mm from the edge of the ridge piece. They should overlap each other by at least 300mm.

Fitting barge boards:-

These are the pieces which cover the gable end edges and weatherproof them. They are set at a 90 degree angle and overlap the gable roof end and the gable wall. They should be screwed through the roof and wall panel along the apex of the profile in just the same way as for the ridge pieces. Fitting wall corner pieces:- These overlap the wall corners and are designed to weatherproof these seams. They should be fixed just as the ridge and barge pieces are fixed.

www.bondsgaragesandsheds.co.uk

Back To More Product Information

This site and all contents are © 2018 Bonds Garages and Sheds
Email: info@bondsgaragesandsheds.com   Telephone: +44 (0) 845 365 8 007